Today we were off to another country again, this time the Czech Republic. As such, the day started with a three hour bus trip on which we did nothing much notable. The majority of the trip was in Austria but when we did eventually cross over into the Czech Republic we all stared intently at the landscape and architecture waiting to see if it would change. The only main point we noted was that things are a little bit more run down in the countryside here, not sure if that was the initial impression we were meant to have!
Leaving Austria was sad, I have loved being back here. The thing I struggle most with is not being able to speak German anymore – I have really enjoyed ordering all the food and using polite little phrases this weekend. On our day trip to Slovakia yesterday it really hit me that I can’t even say ‘thank you’ anymore! There is much (tricky) learning to be done. I also have to catch myself out with those little automatic German phrases like ‘ah so!’ and ‘echt?’ – different country Jess, different country.
At around 12.30pm we arrived in Český Krumlov, a world heritage listed medieval town with a population of just under 15,000. Julie and I were very happy to be given our traditional style hotel room in our 550 year old hotel, right at the top under the slanting roof. We quickly checked the shower for any improvements – this shower is at least attached to the wall, although only at the level of the middle of our backs. Still, improvement it is! (although the door does have a big glass window meaning anyone can see into the bathroom at all times)
Baked chicken breast stuffed with spinach and camembert for lunch then off for some money changing – this meant grabbing four notes of ‘1000 Korun Ceskych’ (20 Australian Dollars to every one). And then we headed off for our bike ride.
Anyone who knows me well can probably guess I was rather apprehensive about a two hour ride, biking is not my strong point and when asked, I was told to expect a forest path with hills. I spent most of the bus ride up there in nervous anticipation. In reality, I needn’t have worried about the bike track at all, it was all sealed asphalt path and 70% of it was downhill. A whole lot of us walked up the hills and really the amount of actual pedalling that I did was very minimal.
What I should have been worried about instead was the weather. We spent the first ten minutes of the trip in a torrential downpour, which was made rather worse by the fact that I didn’t pack a rain coat (I continued to be grossly under prepared for this weather). Instead I wore the only warm jacket I had – one made out of wool that had a great time soaking up the water. There was a chance for us to go home in the bus after that first section but I figured I was already saturated so why not soldier on. The weather cleared up a little for the rest of the ride (I think we even saw sun for 30 seconds). Despite being a soggy iceblock riding through the biting wind, there were some truly beautiful moments on the ride. For example, there were moments where I was alone on the path, with purple flowers one side, white flowers the other, the fresh smell of the rainy forest and a misty view of the Czech mountains. The highlight of the tour so far…but no time for pictures :(
We arrived back in the town at 4.30pm, giving us an hour to have warm showers and defrost before heading out to meet a local guide for a two hour walking tour around the city. I think it is fair to say that every single one of us has fallen in love with this place. It is very small but has so much character – in particular, a lot of the buildings have perspective-challenging painted frescoes on them, due to marble being unaffordable at the time. Some are truly spectacular. Also, there seems to be a local artist who enjoys making sculptures of giant fingers and feet and dotting them around town? Very strange.
I took many photos although I do not think they really do this place justice – we all have a yearning to be here in the normal summer time, there are the most quaint little places to sit with a drink enjoying the sun. This is a city to be strolled through and enjoyed, which is a little tricky when its rainy and windy. Unfortunately tomorrow’s forecast is similar but we will get by.The city’s charm is still very apparent.
After the tour finished, our very funny local tour guide took us to get a ‘Bohemian Feast’. For Julie and I this meant a plate of pheasant and rabbit, matched with various potato dishes and smoked meats. We enjoyed it very much, as well as the Southern Bohemian Mead we ordered with it… warm, sweet alcohol, mmmm. Of course there was also dessert, a traditional Czech cake that was essentially blueberry cheesecake slice. Our guide attempted to teach us some Czech words at dinner but this language does not stick at all, despite multiple repetitions. Its just so different.
An early night – Julie and I were back in the hotel by 9.30pm and we are both looking forward to a chilled, rainy day tomorrow in this quaint little place.
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